Overview
The following post documents my 6 days, 5 nights, 50 miles, rim to rim to rim experience in Grand Canyon National Park in the thick of winter with my boyfriend, Marvin, and our friend, Leo.
The classic R2R2R hike is beautiful and the Grand Canyon is extremely underrepresented in the winter. In many ways, I hope it stays underrepresented because the quiet and minimal amounts of tourists makes it so much more enjoyable. But if you've found this post, then you were probably already crazy enough to consider it. The few backpackers you meet on the trails share a sense of insanity and camaraderie with you and I encourage you to get to know anyone you get the chance to meet. We (Marvin, Leo, and I) all agree that this is probably one of the coolest vacations/backpacking trips we've ever done.
That said, hiking the Grand Canyon always begins with adequate preparation. NPS rings home the point with our permit reading at the bottom: "AGGRESSIVE ITINERARY! Hiker insisted on itinerary!"
We did our research before this trip and I really hope that this blog helps you in your research but it is not a complete guide. Be flexible and be smart. Just as you can't underestimate the weather of the canyon in the summer, you cannot underestimate the snow, rain, or cold in the winter. Weather forecasts can change quickly and can be unpredictable, so be prepared with water and windproof layers in your clothing system. We started R2R2R with clear weather and a snowstorm rolling in on day 3.
I hope my trip details will help you with your planning!
Here are links to other sites that helped me:
Permit Application Process
The permit application process is very straightforward. You need to send your itinerary request via fax but the National Park Service is very helpful if you want to call ahead to get an idea of what is available. The rangers at the Backcountry Office definitely want you to have a good time. (There is a number of free email to fax services if you don't have access to a fax machine.)
I started planning the itinerary 3-4 weeks in advance. At the time of application, permits were $10 + $8/person/night in the canyon + $8/night at the North Rim Yurt, which totaled to $90 for the three of us. I wanted us to have a few hot meals in the canyon so I also called Phantom Ranch to reserve meals and sack lunches. We got lucky when I called and were offered a night's stay in the dorms at Phantom Ranch and so our final itinerary revolved around that night. A stay at Phantom Ranch is not calculated in the permit fee amount since you already pay for lodging there.
Permit Itinerary
Night | Date | Daily Itinerary Details
01 | 1/2/16 | South Kaibab Trailhead --> 7 mi on South Kaibab Trail -->
Bright Angel Campground
02 | 1/3/16 | Bright Angel Campground --> 7.2 mi on North Kaibab Trail -->
Cottonwood Campground
03 | 1/4/16 | Cottonwood Campground --> 6.8 mi on North Kaibab Trail -->
North Rim Yurt
04 | 1/5/16 | North Rim Yurt --> 14 mi on North Kaibab Trail -->
Phantom Ranch
05 | 1/6/16 | Phantom Ranch --> 5.8 mi on Bright Angel Trail -->
Indian Garden Campground
Out | 1/7/16 | Indian Garden Campground --> 4.8 mi on Bright Angel Trail --> Bright Angel Trailhead
Day to Day Description
Day 0
We flew into PHX from SFO and rented a car. We then drove to our inn in Flagstaff and had dinner before doing a final gear check and calling it a night early.
Day 1
[05:30] We began the morning early towards Grand Canyon Village (evading elk blocking the road) and dropped off our luggage bags at Bright Angel Lodge where we would stay upon our return. After dropping off our luggage bags, we parked at Backcountry Office and waited for the Blue Shuttle to the South Kaibab Trailhead. On the shuttle bus, we made a friend doing R2R2R in 2 days and we agreed to look out for each other on our day 2 as he was returning to the South Rim.
[07:45] We set out on the South Kaibab Trail while the sky was still tinted with the hues of sunrise. Clear skies and a dramatic landscape make South Kaibab a great choice for first time rim to rim hikers, but we realized afterwards that the steeper ascent made the trip down rougher on the knees and joints despite taking it slow and stopping frequently to take pictures. Our packs were still heavy (30-35 lbs) with our food rations for the week. We made our water weight decisions based on local knowledge of water sources. We knew water would be available at Phantom Ranch, Cottonwood, North Rim Backcountry Office (year-round), and Indian Garden but always asked rangers or fellow hikers and backpackers if they knew the water situation the next day.
At 10:45, we ate an early lunch (Subway sandwhiches we purchased the night before) a few hundred meters before Skeleton Point. In retrospect, I think the best place to have lunch on this descent is on one of the overlooks (pictured below) over the Colorado River about a half hour hike after The Tipoff. We had a noontime snack there while eyeing our destination below at the ranger station and Bright Angel Campground.
Finally, at 13:45, we arrived at the Kaibab Bridge and followed a short walk to Bright Angel Campground where we had our pick of campsites (except for the creek-side ones).
After making camp, we explored the Phantom Ranch area and the canteen, wondering how much this place might mean to us when we returned from the Yurt 3 days later. The temperature at the campground read 51, the high for that day. Not bad for a winter day! We had an early camp dinner and easily called it a night.
Day 2
[05:00] Rolling out of bed, we took a groggy 15 minute walk to Phantom Ranch for early breakfast. Hot meals are heavenly in the winter, which is why we decided to dine at Phantom Ranch that morning - and you really can't go wrong with eggs, bacon, pancakes, peaches, orange juice, and a good cup of joe or hot tea. Hikers and Phantom Ranch guests spoke with worry about the upcoming rain and snowstorms.
[08:30] After packing up camp, we visited the ranch one last time to fill up on water and set out for Cottonwood Campground. Along the way, we met a very nice team of NPS employees catching fish by Bright Angel Creek. Jen (sp?) happily filled us in on the 5-year natural resource restoration project they were working on: non-native bass were introduced into the creek for sport fishing several decades ago, interrupting the creek's natural ecosystem. Their goal is to reduce the population size of the non-native fish to help the native wildlife numbers increase. Among the wildlife they are hoping to bring back are the
humpback chubs, which hadn't yet been seen by Jen. Along the way to Cottonwood, we also ran into our friend Justin, whom we had met on the bus, making good time on the way back. There would be about 3 ft of snow with the storm rolling in.
[12:45] After a few confusing signs to the Ribbon Falls bridge, we stopped just short of the actual falls to set our packs down and have lunch (Phantom Ranch sack lunch this time). If we had known better, we would have brought our lunch out to the falls so we could enjoy them while sitting behind the falls. Without much of an idea of what were looking at, the falls grew increasingly epic as we approached and explored. This is definitely a pit stop worth taking. Be sure to set your packs down early!
[15:00] The falls were just a short 1.4 mi from Cottonwood, so our early arrival allowed us to set up camp and cook dinner before nightfall. We were expecting rainfall that night due to the storm rumors and the 15 minutes of light snowflakes we experienced at Ribbon Falls. It was also relatively warm out thanks to the warm front from the storms. Colder than Phantom Ranch but definitely warmer than the South Rim, which we heard was sitting in the 30s.
According to Leo, the walk between Cottonwood and Bright Angel feels "very Middle Earth" and I must agree. With all the precipitation in the spring and winter, the area stays green and the
temperatures were cool and comfortable.
Day 3
[06:30] Snow showers began after we ate breakfast and we ended up with wet tents. Although we were stashing them on the campground before our ascent up the North Rim, we were sad that the water weight would weigh us down upon our return. I insisted that we store my sleeping bag because I believed the wood burning stove was warm and the yurt was insulated enough for my boyfriend and I to share one sleeping bag as a blanket.
[09:30] With a total of 10 lbs of camping gear unloaded between us three (hey, every pound counts!), we began our ascent in a serious snow drizzle. A pack of day hikers making camp at Cottonwood trailblazed the way ahead of us and we were thankful to them when we hit serious snow past the Supai Tunnel. The ascent was relatively easy up until the last 1.5 miles or so, which we anticipated. Ascending uses a different set of muscles and far less impact than descending. The weather at the Supai Tunnel around 1pm was in the 39-40 F -- not bad at all.
[14:45] From Supai Tunnel, it took me two hours to reach the North Kaibab Trailhead. The switchbacks in deep snow were difficult and seemingly endless. But oh so gorgeous. I can see why many call the North Kaibab Trail their favorite. The canyon views are vast and deep and varied.
We happened to meet two rangers on snowmobiles who had just restocked the Yurt with wood. The snow was pouring at that point and they noted that the snowstorm would continue for the next few days.
[15:00] We arrived at the Yurt and got the wood burning stove going. We didn't have trouble getting the fire started, but we got a lot of smoke backing up and filling the yurt. If anyone has any tips for that, please comment or let us know!
While I watched the stove, the boys set out to get water at the North Rim Backcountry Office, which was apparently difficult to identify with all the snow pouring in. We had no idea what the North Rim looked like in the on-season so finding the water source was a bit of a quest.
The Yurt was stocked with two yoga mats (possibly useful for sleeping mat replacement), some cookware, plates and bowls, a few board games, an ax, a small first aid kit, and more. If you're nice enough, bring something in advance to contribute (it could use a deck of cards as of 1/4/2016). There is also a Yurt Log (guest book) so think of something clever before you get there!
Unfortunately, we decided to skip out on Roaring Springs due to the snow so I can't say much about how much it was worth visiting in the winter. I did stop to appreciate how the springs provided water to the entire inner corridor up to Indian Garden, where water is pumped to the Grand Canyon Village in the South Rim.
Day 4
[07:50] A few minutes behind schedule, we had 14 miles of descent to cover before our late dinner at Phantom Ranch (6:30pm). With fresh snow, we didn't need our crampons and the views were once again gorgeous. On our way down, we ran into two other souls making a day hike up.
[13:00] We finally made it to our halfway point at Cottonwood to pick up our tents and my sleeping bag. After lunch, we set out with more weight and refilled water.
[16:30] At last, we reached Phantom Ranch and checked in. Phantom Ranch was nice enough to make extra veggie chili stew for Leo that night. We had a wonderful and much needed hot shower before dinner at 6:30pm. At this point, I was very happy that we all invested in trekking poles. They are an
absolute must on long trips like this with heavy packs!
It was wonderful meeting the hikers at dinner:
- Sue on her yearly trek into the canyon, going farther each year. Her friend, a vegan, wasn't able to join us for dinner but we did meet her the next morning.
- Bob and Becky, a couple who met while floating on the Colorado River a couple of years ago. They go back every year. :)<3
By the end of dinner, we were too tired to hang out in the canteen so we decided to wash up and call it a night early. I feel tired just thinking about that day.
Day 5
[07:00] After a pleasant late breakfast at PR, we took our sweet time re-packing. At 8:30am, we hung out in the canteen for postcards and souvenirs and spent a moment to wish our fellow hikers happy trails. Many Grand Canyon and Arizona regulars noted that the last nights rainfall was the most they had seen in a long while (#ElNinoisreal?)... making us feel very lucky that we had a warm dorm bed, a hot shower, and warm meals at Phantom Ranch that night.
[08:45] We began a pleasant walk up Bright Angel Trail to Indian Garden Campground feeling refreshed. Despite muddy trails from the last night's rainfall, we got to appreciate how dramatic the Colorado River was. The rains also seemed to bring a lot of wildlife out: we spotted many flycatchers, a few bluebirds, and a Woodhouse Toad on the trail. In retrospect, perhaps starting at Bright Angel Trail would have been better and easier on the knees but S. Kaibab Trail offered more dramatic views and I think, at the cost of our mid-20s knees, we had done it the right way the first time around.
[14:00] After making camp, eating lunch, and relaxing at Indian Campground, we set out for a short 1.5 miles to Plateau Point where we took the time to take pictures, chat, and reflect on our journey. The views were sweeping even with more stormclouds rolling in. However, the storm gathered quickly by 5:00pm and we couldn't stay for sunset. We were delighted to cross paths with a family of mule deer on the plateau on our way back. At 6:00pm, we enjoyed dinner and called it a night before the rain started pouring.
Day 6
[09:00] Camping in the rain is really annoying... staying dry is a challenge and backpacking with wet tents added to the extra weight we lost from eating. Packing up camp took a while but it was a magical surprise hanging out with a family of mule deer wandering our campground. Glad for our character-building night before hiking out of the canyon, we set out for our endpoint: Bright Angel Trailhead. The trails were muddy up until the 3 mile rest house. Then, with the snow, we enjoyed the brisk walk up and reminisced on how much more beautiful the snow was at the North Rim.
[12:45] We got to the trailhead before 2pm, took our final "WE SURVIVED" pictures, and went straight to Bright Angel Lodge for check in. After five nights in the canyon, our completion of the journey was still surreal and we did not feel as dead or sore as we thought we would.
Mustering up our suprisingly generous store of energy, we dropped our stuff off, showered, and walked over to the Backcountry Office to find our little Hyundai Accent rental car buried in 2-3ft of snow. After digging out the car with shovels we borrowed from the Backcountry office, we visited Justin at the General Store, ate dinner at the Yavasupai tavern, and finally crashed back at our lodge room.
Cheers to a rim to rim to rim officially complete!
Check out our Facebook album here:
About the Hikers
All of us are recreational hikers who keep decently fit:
Andrea - bioengineer, project manager, runner, trip planner
Marvin - electrical engineer (hardware), climber, most experienced among the three of us
Leo - electrical engineer (networking), comic artist, runner, vegetarian
